Now into the first few weeks of Autumn, we at Casa Angelina, as well as all of us here in the region of Campania, are excited to welcome in the new season with our centuries-old rituals, traditions, and vacation benevolences.
First, we start with our annual ritual, “cambio di stagione” or “change of season.” As the radiating sun loses severity in its heat, crisper air is the new norm on the Amalfi Coast. The Italian women of Campania see this as, not only a change of weather, but a change of wardrobe as well. As Autumn temperatures seep in through the progression of September, skirts and sundresses give way to jeans and trousers, sandals to boots, light wraps to coats. Colors change too —accruements with bright orange, red, green, and yellow hues are replaced with more morose tones such as black, brown and grey. Many denizens will tell you it’s the most important ritual in Italy, a controversial opinion. No small task, items need to be washed, pressed, and laid away; autumnal clothing is taken out from hibernation to be aired-out for its yearly debut; boots and shores are polished, intentioned to look anew when rain becomes more of a common sight as winter approaches. The “cambio di stagione” is often dreaded — it waves goodbye to tourists, warm sea water, and Aperol Spritzes, among many other quintessential Amalfi Coast-summer elements.
In autumn, “sagre” or “local festivals that celebrate food and wine” pop-up all-over Italy. Here on the Amalfi Coast, in the mountain town of Scala, residents gather to tradition the Sagra della Castagna, which celebrates native chestnut trees that bless the area. No date is set — local farmers come together to decide when the harvest will be ready, alerting the townspeople about when festivities can take place. Travelers can venture to the village and take part in regional specialties, which include chestnut tasting (roasted chestnuts are a must), traditional games, as well a donkey race that passes through the central square.
Campania is a must in the fall; residents will tell you this is the best time to vacation in the region. While autumn-time sees Northern Italy host a sweeping variety of attractions that appeal to leaf-peeping seekers, the Amalfi Coast, in Southern Italy, welcomes a different treasure trove of benefits. In a normal year — we can all agree 2020 is not one — crowds recede significantly from their summertime numbers and the Amalfi Coast is for locals again. Hotel rates are significantly reduced. The sky is sunny and temperatures are mild. Tyrrhenian-Sea sunsets are more orange than ever, and are complementary to the newly returned, ever-refreshing breeze that is redolent of the season.